Further Adventures in Swiss Skiing

The opportunity to ski Switzerland was a big reason for our eagerness to move here.  Not surprisingly, so far this year every possible weekend – and in several cases extended weekends – have involved at least one day of skiing.  This, despite the fact that snow conditions have universally been recognized as poor.  Unlike the Swiss, who have the mountains always with them, we are only here for a short and must make the best of whatever conditions present themselves.  (Besides, skiing in the eastern US has given us lots of experience with poor conditions!)

In the past few months we have visited six different areas: Andermatt, Hoch Ybrig, Davos, Flumserberg, Engleberg and the Jungfrau region.  Andermatt, only an hour away and offering a wide variety of different slopes, is fast becoming our “home” area. 

An "Easy" Slope at Andermatt

Although the areas have some similarities – mainly related to the steep glacial valley formations that I have noted before – there are many differences in the layout of pistes, as each area is determined by its special geological features.  The mountain’s shape affects availability of slopes with a moderate pitch and a desirable width.  For me, this has translated into a continuing quest to find skiable intermediate slopes.  So far, Davos, one of the largest areas, is able to offer a wider range of wide, intermediate “cruising” slopes.  Each time we visit a new area, we have to do a careful reconnaissance to identify likely possibilities.  Some days, such as our first in the Jungfrau region recently, we hit pay dirt.

At top of Männlichen

As you may recall from our visit to the Lauterbrunnen Valley last fall, the Jungfrau region encompasses several mountain ranges and valleys, over which loom three awesome peaks, the Eiger, the Monch and the Jungfrau.  The Männlichen ski area is located on a ridge below Eiger and between Wengen and the valley town of Grindelwald.   To reach the area we took a cograil train from Lauterbrunnen to Wengen and changed to an aerial tram.  On the Grindelwald side of the ridge is a nice collection of beginner and intermediate trails that kept me happily occupied for the better part of the first day, while TS explored more widely.  

Skiing in the Shadow of The Eiger

Later in the day we took a series of trails and lifts to Kleine Scheidegg, directly below Eiger, where the famous Lauberhorn downhill run begins.  The Lauberhorn is one of the first and still the longest downhill run featured in World Cup ski competition, held in mid-January each year.  It runs all the way down the western side of the mountain to Wengen. 

   

Along the trail to Wengen

More ambitious expert skiers can follow the actual race track, while the less ambitious (like me) can take a lovely lower trail that runs all the way into the town of Wengen.

Heading up to the top of Gemstock at Andermatt

Aside from physical differences in the areas we have visited, we have also noted that each seems to have a particular culture, related to the origins of its skiers.  Andermatt is principally favored by the local Swiss, who know the mountain intimately and can be seen first thing in the morning heading for the best powder caches on the higher reaches.  When we ski there we hear mainly Swiss German spoken, with a smattering of Italian from folks from the other side of the Gotthard Pass, where the Italian-speaking part of Switzerland begins (plus, Milan is only two hours away).  Similarly, Flumserberg seems popular with folks from Zürich, including a larger number of beginners.

In keeping with its international reputation, Davos is the most diverse – but not, from what I have heard, as glamorous as folks at St. Moritz.  Some parts of Davos are popular with boarders, and there are a lot of less expensive hotels and hostels that cater to a young crowd.  

Wengen still has many large Victorian era hotels

On the other hand, the Jungfrau region is dominated by British skiers.  I haven’t heard so much English spoken in once place since we came to Switzerland.  This makes a lot of sense when you learn that the British practically created Swiss tourism in this region in the nineteenth century and began to discover the beauties of Swiss winters in the 1910s.  In 1922, a British promoter of ski racing named Arnold Lunn organized the world’s first slalom race on a course at Mürren.

This year, though, there seems to be a higher proportion of Swiss skiers at all the areas we have visited, largely because the Swiss Franc is so strong in relation to the Euro, British Pound and US Dollar that it makes it too expensive for everyone else.  Two things we have noted about Swiss skiers: one, they are really good – who wouldn’t be, if they started skiing at age 4 to 6?  And, two, they dress really well.  None of those uniform black ski pants for them, thank you very much; they wear beautifully designed outfits where the jackets are coordinated with the pants – and the skis!  Doris, a colleague at The Spouse’s company, is from Graubünden, the Canton in which Davos is located.  She acknowledged that when she bought big new powder skis this year she had to get an entirely new outfit to match them.  (I also owe to Doris the knowledge that the correct pronunciation of Davos is Da-vos, with emphasis on the second syllable rather than the first.  So if you want to sound really cool when discussing the latest issues raised at the World Economic Forum, be sure to say Davos.)